The Lakeside Pilgrimage
A Medieval Temple Town Bordering One Of Japan’s Natural Wonders
The setting is a temple town called Sakamoto in neighboring Shiga prefecture. This is where monks would come down from Mt. Hiei to rest and recharge in-between long bouts of very intense training. You might think you would need to travel back 400 years to get to such a place, but actually it is only a 30 minute train ride from Kyoto Station. And hardly anyone comes here.
Sakamoto has very much retained the historic and agricultural landscape reminiscent of years past. As many visitors to Kyoto arrive expecting an ancient, traditional town they may be somewhat disappointed to see how modern and touristic it is becoming. You could say that coming to Sakamoto is your best chance to experience what Kyoto used to be.
We spend the morning weaving through the neighborhood streets visiting inconspicuous sites that are hardly apparent to the casual visitor. Entering into one of the most historically important shrines in Japan, we make our way up the mountain to a major power spot which overlooks Lake Biwa.
From here we will walk through a farming community to a temple complex with several picturesque gardens. We then head back to town through the old neighborhood and finish at a villa created in the Edo period for the tired monks. As the whole day is very much like a pilgrimage, this provides a great place for the rest afterwards as matcha and sweets are an option here. At the end of the day you will undoubtedly feel enriched and refreshed, much like the monks of Mt. Hiei of centuries past.
Itinerary:
Saikyoji, Farmland, Hiyoshi Taisha, Lunch, Shigain, Jigendo, Toshogu Jinja, and Kyu-Chikurinin
Length: 8 hours
Meeting Point: Yamashina Station
A moment in time in Sakamoto
Sites Descriptions:
Saikyo-ji
Tucked up against the mountains, this monastery is home to a wonderful collection of paintings, statuary and gardens. The large Buddha in the main prayer hall is not to be missed. Far off the beaten path this temple is breath-taking in all seasons.
FarmLand
Weaving our way through the countryside we will pass through rice fields and vegetable plots that have been tended by the families of this community for centuries.
1,000 Buddhas
Going back over a thousand years ago these small statues were strewn all over Sakamoto. In modern times they were gathered together here and arranged to protect those who are passing by on pilgrimages.
Hiyoshi taisha
Hiyoshi Taisha is the main shrine of the Sanno Shintoism and has more than 3,800 branch shrines across the country. It is home to the guardian diety of the Tendai sect of ancient Kyoto and its vast grounds are home to 40 shrines as well as the east and west halls, which have been designated as national historical landmarks and contain many cultural properties.
Shiga-in
For centuries this temple served as the residence for imperial princes who became Tendai Buddhist monks. Surrounded by intricate stone walls, this temple is home to a garden that has been designated nationally as a sight of scenic beauty. Within the halls of this temple is a museum-like collection of paintings, statuary and other works of art from the Edo Period.
Jigen-do
Jigen-do is home to a mystical burial ground which we will explore. Dedicated to the monk Tenkai, who was a key figure in the history of Sakamoto, this cemetery contains the remains of monks, samurai, artists and political figures. Of particular interest are a group of 13 stone Buddha statues that look over and protect the souls of those who inhabit this space.
Toshogu jinja
This shrine is dedicated to Tokugawa Ieyasu, the shogun who’s reign kicked off the Edo Period. He is credited with helping to end hundreds of years of civil war, which lead to the unification of Japan in the early 1600’s.
Kyu-Chikurin-in
Simple put- one of my favorite gardens to spend time in. Centered around and artificial mountain this space feels like a miniature version of the vast mountain landscape that surrounds Sakamoto. After walking through the garden tea and sweets can be enjoyed while viewing the garden from the main hall.
Guest Review: A Wonderful Experience
“I loved every moment of the Sakamoto tour. It was informative and engaging with constant interaction with us as travelers on this tour. It was a beautiful blend of Japanese culture and its connection with nature. The landscapes were stunning and was complemented by Andrew's expert insights. A beautiful experience.”
-Susan, USA, February 2020